Monday, March 3, 2008

Henry's / Delray Beach Sun Sentinel Review


Henry's is a bustling restaurant serving upscale contemporary cuisine and American comfort food that's a cut above.Early-bird specials offer a great value; the restaurant is very busy during the early hours of the evening.The wine list is excellent, offering a very good selection at various prices. The full bar is well stocked with excellent top shelf and well liquors.
Even though the restaurant is busy, the service is attentive. Many of the staff are longtime employees, an excellent indicator of a well-run restaurant.I couldn't help overhearing the staff calling many of the patrons by name.More than a few customers proudly offered suggestions and commentary when they heard that it was my first visit.Henry's Magical Split Pea Soup ($5.95) is a vegetarian creation that boasts excellent flavor.The tuna tartare ($12.95) is elegant, light and served with an exotic papaya slaw for an interesting contrast.Starter and main plate salads are a little pricey, but the quality of the greens and the upscale extra ingredients justify the cost.The charred tomato vinaigrette served on the chopped roasted vegetable salad ($9.95) is an innovative twist to salad dressing and definitely worth a try on any of the salads.The entree selection is excellent, with something for everyone.The gourmet pot roast ($24.95) comes highly recommended, as does Henry's signature chicken pot pie ($18.95). Another signature item at Henry's are daily specials of country chicken casseroles ($17-$19), which are large helpings brimming with various regional chicken entrees such as Southern-fried, cacciatore and coq au vin.Don't let these simple items mislead you into thinking that Henry's is a diner.Even the simplest of fare gets upscale treatment with excellent ingredients, large portions, innovative side dishes and beautiful presentation.Upscale items include Dijon and Crumb-Encrusted Chicken Milano served with sweet potato ravioli ($18.95) and Roast Duck with fig-balsamic glaze ($23.95) plated with spaghetti squash and mushroom barley pilaf.A rather uncommon item, Ruby Red Trout with wild rice and amaretto buerre blanc ($21.95), was served to a person at the next table; the presentation was simple and refined, the aroma of the salmon-colored trout was wonderful.The desserts change often, but if available I highly recommend the banana cream and coconut cream pies ($8.95).These are given the star treatment and what could be ordinary is transformed into extraordinary.The banana cream has a golden topping ... literally. There is what appears to be gold leaf mixed into a crumb topping.This is a unique and spectacular finish to a wonderful dining experience.

Write to dining correspondent Donald Kim at foodie@fishsticks.cc or in care of the Sun-Sentinel.■■■½Cuisine: American
16850 Jog Road, Delray Beach561-638-1949hhenrysofbocaraton.com
Cost: moderate-expensive
Credit cards: all major
Hours: lunch Monday-Saturday; dinner nightlyReservations: recommended
Bar: full service
Smoking: outdoors
Children's facilities: high chairs, boosters
Wheelchair accessible: yes

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