Wednesday, January 9, 2008

Bogart's Bar & Grille Review in "Simply The Best Magazine"





By Kenny Spahn


"Dinner and a Movie
now takes on a whole new meaning.
That is, at least, in Boca Raton, at Bogart’s Bar &
Grille. Bogart’s is the latest blockbuster from legendary
producer Burt Rapoport (Opus 5, Henry’s,
Max’s Grille, Mon Ami, et al.). The setting takes place at the
glamorous Premier Muvico Palace, where you can catch all
the Red Carpet entrances and after-party action at the lively
front Bistro. Or, choose the back Dining Room for a more
intimate experience. Either way, you’re in for a great show.
GM John Maddalena directs the action with seamless editing
(ever-cognizant of the pending movie start times). But the
real special effects take place behind the scenes, where
Executive Chef Chuck Gittleman and his backstage crew
deliver daily all-star performances.

"Previews"
Bogart’s eclectic menu features some favorite
celebrities from other Burt Rapoport productions (call it,
“The Best Of Burt”). The show begins with appropriatelydubbed
“Sharing Plates” ($7-$14), including Asian-inspired
Calamari and Wasabi Seared Tuna (from Opus 5) and
Mahogany Chicken Wings (Max’s Grille). Or if you prefer a
good Western, catch the Grilled Chicken Quesadilla, Baja
Fish Tacos, or Chili Con Queso. Prezzo’s signature thin-crust
Pizzas make a spectacular comeback at Bogart’s (try the
Whole Wheat Grilled Veggie, or luscious 4-cheese Chicken
Artichoke). But our favorite preview appears in the role of
the practically addicting Black Angus Sliders.

"Opening Act"
Several characters play duel roles as light dinners
and/or healthy lunches. Grilled Chicken, for instance,
shares the screen with mixed baby greens, goat cheese, pine
nuts, tomatoes, and crispy onions in a rousing rendition of
Balsamic Grilled Chicken Salad. Southwest Cobb, Greek, and
Thai Chicken are some other meal-worthy Salads ($6-$15).
Meanwhile, the 10-oz. Premier Sirloin Burger takes the lead
on the Sandwich set, co-starring the Mediterranean Chicken
Pita, Blackened Mahi, and Grilled Portobello sandwiches.

"Main Attraction"
Onion-Crusted Snapper repeatedly garners
a standing ovation, with its crispy onion crust adding a
subtly sweet note and textural component to the butter-soft
filet, all set atop a cloud of mashed potatoes, and teamed
with sautéed spinach and Madeira wine sauce (Bravo!).
Henry’s Old Fashioned Pot Roast and Max’s Radiatore (with
roasted chicken, broccoli, sundried tomatoes, balsamic
broth, goat cheese and pine nuts) are other sellouts, along
with Blue Cheese Crusted Filet Mignon, Maple-Ginger
Salmon, and the diet-conscious Boca Plate ($13-$28). The
night’s best performance, however, was an inspired guest
appearance (i.e., nightly special)—Chef Chuck’s amazing
Seared Scallops. The delicate bivalves appeared beautifully
bronzed and glazed in truffle-brown butter reduction, with
baby green beans and sultry caramelized onion-mashed potatoes
playing supporting roles. Brilliant! (Chef Chuck, this one’s a
winner, dude —sign it on to the regular cast!).

"Intermission"
With a title like “Bogart’s Bar and Grille,”
you better believe the ‘Bar’ delivers some killer cocktails. From
the well-scripted wine list, we particularly applaud an independent
feature, Burt’s Cuvee (Burt’s private label, now
appearing only at select Rapoport venues). Enjoy this full bodied,
meritage-like blend (primitivo, petite syrah, zinfandel, &
syrah), which sings bold dark berry notes, while delivering dramatic
lines of licorice, oak, and spice. (“Movie?—What
movie?”)

"The Finale"
Directing the Dessert production is the
award-winning Niko Jambetakis (my favorite pastry
chef). Anything that comes from Chef Niko is bound to
be awesome, but his homemade Blueberry Pie gets the
Academy Award. It’s made fresh from scratch, served still
warm, and topped with vanilla ice cream—just like
grandma used to make (if your grandma was a highly
skilled Greek pastry chef!). One sneak preview, and
you’ll forget about all about the Raisinettes and
Twizzlers!

Bogart’s Bar and Grille
Makes an all-star performance—
one you’ll want to see again and again!
Serving lunch and dinner daily (with or without a movie).
Located at the Premier level at Muvico Palace 20 in Boca
Raton. Call (561) 544-3044, or visit: www.bogartsofboca.com

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